We have a Bluetooth adapter for our car audio and it’s great. Plugs into the aux jack and car power. Really handy not needing to plug in.

It’s all with respect to humans. Humans aren’t making the bird nests, so they’re natural, not man-made. Our houses don’t over naturally, we build them.

From the bird’s perspective, sure, nests might be bird-made and humans are part of nature. But at humans, we’ve also done a ton to shape the world and separate ourselves from nature. If your house were a fire-heated lean-to in the woods, there might be less a distinction between it and “out in nature,” but if you’re living in a city or town, your immediate surroundings probably have been heavily constructed and modified by humans.

Well, they didn’t put carpet on the bathroom floor. But they’ve arguably found something far worse.

The further you go, the more specialized it gets. There are people I know doing their PhDs in CS, but it was pretty much just straight math. I’m now an expert in a very specific area of robotics. But it’s only worth it if you have a specific reason to go to grad school, like for a particular career path. If it’s just because you like learning, it’s not worth it. There’s a big opportunity cost.

My older sibling did something similar - getting Ubuntu installed on my very first laptop (a 9" netbook) back in 2008 and replacing windows XP. But be warned: it is a slippery slope. At the time , I just wanted a computer that I could take class notes on (high school), and never wanted to touch programming or the terminal. Now I have a PhD in computer science. I still don’t use Arch though.

These ads are getting so much more prevalent, and so much more subtly marked. Google (and places like reddit and Facebook) designs them to feel as much like organic content as possible. I have a pihole on my home network, in part to prevent exactly the type of mistake you described.

Oh boy, I keep a page just for this!.

I need to update it (for example, Arachne perimeters in PrusaSlicer now let you print extra thin perimeters), but it’s useful to have a reference for common tolerances/dimensions like screw holes.

But a couple of my little additional pet peeves:

• Don’t put fillets on the underside of prints (against the bed). The nearly-flat angle always droops and looks bad. Use a chamfer instead, or make a fillet that actually starts at 30° from horizontal.
• The weakest direction is between layers. Design your part such that you can print it in an orientation where the thin/weak parts aren’t printed where the layer lines can snap (eg, print it flat vs vertical)
• Just like the straight lines inside screw head holes, thinking ahead in your design can prevent/minimize the need for support material. The earlier you start thinking about this in you design, the easier it will be. For example, can a part be designed with a 30° slope on an underside instead of being flat? Can you think about your print orientation early in the design process to avoid overhangs?
• Chamfer of fillet inside corners, if it’s a structural part. This will greatly reduce stress concentrations.

Personally, I don’t use 3 perimeters on most of my prints. On my prusa, they look totally fine with 2 perimeters. I only switch to 3 if I need the strength (which also almost always means I’m printing in PETG, rather than PLA, FWIW).

I’m also team onshape. I have a powerful desktop, but I still end up doing CAD from the couch on my 6-year-old Chromebook, so onshape is a champ for that. It’s also nice for collaborating, which I do when working on bigger projects with my fiancee.

I got started with it entirely from the tutorials provided by Onshape itself. The learning curve was a lot less steep than I expected.

I’m almost done building a from-scratch keyboard with a pair of nice!nanos. So far is been a pretty good experience. I ran into some issues setting up my firmware for a brand new keyboard layout (which shouldn’t be an issue if you’re just making a config for an existing keyboard), and the ZMK/nice!nano discords were very helpful and got me up and running.

When wiring the battery, I’d say get the biggest single cell lipo that will fit in your case. But even a 100mAh battery will get you pretty far off you don’t have LEDs. You just connect the B+ and B- pins on the board to your battery. If you want to make the battery last longer, stick a switch inline with the battery to be able to completely turn it off (rather than it just going into deep sleep).

What kind of curling issue, and did the Hilbert curve help with that?

I’ve found that I’m rarely doing something where my top layer lines matter. Usually, I get my finished surface by printing things face down on a textured sheet. This works for probably 95% of the things I print whereki care about finish. The others I’ll turn on ironing, but that’s probably way slower than the Hilbert curve.